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From Bhagalpur To Dumka By Bus

by Sanjay Gupta

March 3, 2006

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I wish to recount my personal experience during my visit to Bhagalpur last November.

Bhagalpur is the place I was born 35 years ago and incidentally it's my wife's native place too.

It all happened when I had to see one of my uncles in Dumka and the driver of the house informed me that the car had broken down. He said "u kya hai ki iska ingen baith gaya hai, obher wayling karana hoga."

I could estimate that I was hearing of a long term project and then I declared that I will go by myself.

I tool a cycle rickshaw and started for my journey of 115 Kilometers, The guy told me that all buses leave from the other side of "Ulta Puul". When I reached Ulta Puul, I found everthing was topsy-turvy. The bridge was getting a face lift and by seeing it I could not gauge as to where it started or where it ended.

I inhaled a deep breath and tried to cross the Ulta Puul. Half way through, I had to use my acrobatic skills to jump over a small trench and after having performed I heard a voice saying, "wah kya jump lagaye hain lagta hai pahla baar Ulta Puul taap rahe hain".

When I was about to reach the end, suddenly a guy on a bicycle appeared from nowhere and dashed his bicycle on my right hand which was holding a brand new sports bag and lo! the bag immediately left my hand and rested itself in a heap of garbage and I had my trousers slashed by an iron rod which was protruding out of one of the pillars.

I recollected my wit and heaved a sigh after the great achievement.

I asked for the bus to Dumka, "Yahan koi bus nahi hai, aapko aaagey 3-4 kilometer jana hoga. Baag Baadi main bus milega Dumka kaa".

I asked for a three-wheeler. Seeing my size, he said "ek sawari ka 3 Rupiya, aap ko do seat milega 6 rupiya dena hoga." I asked "kitna time lagega?" He said "bus jab bhar jayega to chanlenge". I rested for about 45 minutes and nobody came.

Then a rickshaw came over to me. "20 Rupiya dijiyega?? tempo se paahle pahuncha dengey." I said yes and he gave a flying start to his vehicle. I was amazed at the speed and the way he maneuvered his rickshaw in small streets and after real 15 minutes he dropped me near the bus.

I asked the conductor, "bus kitna baaje jayegi?" He replied "bus 9:30 par yahan sey chchuth jayegi." It was 9 so I thought in the next 30 minutes I will be on my way.

As soon as I entered the bus I was greeted by the book seller for purchasing some story books and when I tried to find my seat I had to sneak in and out 2 times and ultimately settled down on a fully bare seat with no inch of upholstery just iron every where.

When I saw the clock in the bus, my heart sank because in it the time was 8:15 and not 9 and when I asked the driver he said, "ee time hi theek hai aapka ghadi fast hai. Jabb isme 9:30 hoga tabhi bus jayegi."

I cursed myself and left the bus swearing not to go by it but I returned defeated and with compromise because after that there was no vehicle for that day.

The bus started at 10:15 (9:30 by the clock inside) and it crawled for about 30 minutes to get in as many people as possible.

The driver was in no mood to speed up the bus; it seemed that this journey would last forever but after some time it picked up some speed.

I just dozed off but suddenly woke up to find that it was already 2 hours since the bus had left and I was happy that we would have covered quite a distance. But another setback was announced that we will have to change the bus and move into another one which was parked next to it, and I read the milestone 'Dumka 70 Kms'.

That meant we traveled just 35 Kms in 2 hours. "Do ghanta mein itna door le aaaya? lagta hai bahut tej chala ke layen hain", said the driver of the other bus to our driver.

After we sat in the other bus, it left with a breeze and I was relaxed that the worse was over and in a few hours we will reach the destination.

But the God had other ideas! After about an hour or so we heard a loud noise and the bus came to a screeching halt. The conductor announced that "tyre puncture ho gaya hai, badalna hoga" and surprisingly the puncture happened just opposite a repair shop and a dhaba.

I just relaxed and sat inside the thatched dwelling. 2 hours passed; the guy was wrestling with all his tools to fix the tyre and the owner of the hotel said, "bhyaiya, daal bhat aaloo ka bhujiya khayiga? Bechara ee ladka hai naa, bada mehnat se banaya hai."

I was hungry also as the lunch time had approached so I ordered a plate and when I tasted the first morsel it was delightfully tasteful and a real treat to have such food which is not available in any other part of the world except at line hotels in Bihar.

I had 2 meals instead of 1 then the bus was ready to move and at about 4 pm it reached Dumka without any more events.
 

Comments:
Congratulations, at least you reached there safely and even had sumptuous food in between. - Anjum Parwej - Mar. 4, 2006

That's not really surprising. In almost all journeys, I faced the same problem. Using public transport in Bihar was just painful and complete waste of time. I had to travel between Hilsa and Patna, just less than 70 kms and spend many hours of painful journey in train and three wheelers. I used to start at 9.30-10:00 AM and reach my destination in Patna by about 2:00PM, surprisingly about 4 hours later! During journey by tempo, I always had feeling that I am sitting on shaker and trying to keep myself safe. Again, few trains were never on time. Announcement at train station was really loud and annoying. Overall, You have to have your own transportation if you wanted to save time and do your work on time. I am not very hopeful that this is going to change in near future. - Manoj Kumar - Mar. 4, 2006


Sanjay Gupta ji, very good article. Bihar may be a dead place for investment and industry but is really a happening place as far traveling is concerned.

I was in Patna 2 years back. I was going from Bailey Rd to University area in an auto-rickshaw. Suddenly my rickshaw banged another rickshaw real hard breaking his lights etc. When I asked, he coolly said, "Break Fail Ho Gaya". As I started to get down, he said "Baithe rahiye, ek baar fail hua, gari nahin ruka to kya kabhi nahi rukega?"

Another rickshaw wala started abusing him and started telling me "Jaan ko dekhiye 10 rupiya mat dekhiye, uska break fail hai fir kahin pe marega"

Finally somehow I reached 4 km in 1-1.5 hrs. - Kaushal Das - Mar. 4, 2006


I really enjoyed the journey. In my write up, I never at all felt that I am complaining. Whenever I am in Bihar I really enjoy traveling and having food at the road side eateries and hotel. I wolf on litti and kachori sabji and the yogurt nowhere I could find the same taste. It is heavenly and I always wished my journey to last a little longer because of innovative experiences I got in this motherland of ours.

It is a departure from the monotonous travel by first class and air I always had and would look forward to many such experiences; no regrets and no complaints. - Sanjay Gupta - Mar. 5, 2006


It is a very well written article which evoked a lot of emotions and made me very nostalgic. I loved the way you described situations like "lagta hai pahla baar Ulta Puul taap rahe hain". I could visualise the scene and could almost hear the tone in which it must have been said. And of course, I ate dal bhat bhunjiya for dinner after reading about it.

One and half years ago, I had visited Patna with my little boy who was just one year old at that time. Even he enjoyed the train journeys much more than the air journey from USA to India as everyone in the train played with him as if he were a family member to them. Where in the world can we find such "apnapan" even for strangers!! - Rakesh Kumar - Mar. 7, 2006

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