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The Great Mango Debate

by Som Vishwakarma
USA

May 25, 2006

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Summer is the mango season in India. Everyone is excited about eating the delicious king of the fruits. The Indian summer season is blistering hot (with frequent power cuts) so people have limited good things to look forward to. Children are obviously the happiest since they have summer vacations plus they can go to their nanihaal. But for adults the highlight of the summer season is the mango. The history of South East Asian countries like India, Nepal, Thailand, Cambodia and Bangladesh is filled with mango tales. I remember reading Jatak Kathas about mangoes (okay it was a monkey tale but I cannot take my mind off the mangoes!).

In school they taught us that in India we have unity in diversity and that diversity is the essence of India. Well, even the king of fruits has diversity. We have Hapus/Alphonso from Ratnagiri in Maharashtra, Kesar from Gujarat, Banganpalli from Andhra Pradesh, Dussehari from UP and of course Langda from Bihar and Bengal .

This diversity in mangoes has created it's own set of debates. The mangoes debates! Besides the usual topics like reservations and politics, people have passionately started discussing and debating mangoes.

People from each state are claiming that mangos from their parts are the best. They are not merely satisfied by calling their mangoes the king of fruits but they want to crown their local mangoes the king of the kings. I have observed people from various states defending their mangoes with the passion of a religious fanatic/racist. Love and loyalty of the mango from their own state plus the xenophobic hate of mangoes from other states doubly blind them. Dare to call their mangoes second best and you are in trouble.

The funny things is that most people have not even eaten the types of mangoes that they are so vociferously condemning while defending the mango from their own state. Tell a Maharashtrian guy that you like langda better than Hapus or tell an AP guy that you like Kesar better than Banganpalli and you are going to get an earful. People will say nasty things to each other that will sometimes even put the reservation debate to shame! They refuse to budge an inch from their stand and are obviously blind and hostile to logic.

Their mangoes debate equation is very simple and is similar to the reservation debate equation:

My Side = Right Side and
Your Side = Wrong Side

You try to change the equation as follows
XYZ Side = Function Of (Many Variables) and all the sides will rush to you with their arms drawn.

My personal take on the mango debate is to enjoy all the flavors of mangoes. It's quite possible that a certain flavor tastes best in a certain region since the produce is more fresh (no transportation delay). It's true that the love and sweet memories of your state and language gets magically added to the mango’s taste. But mangoes are meant for eating so why fight over them. It's not as if mango is a talwar and one myan can hold only one talwar. You can put a piece of each type of mango on your plate and enjoy all of them together. You can even try creating many more mango tastes by eating the different types in one bite (I forgot the permutation/combination formulae but you can get almost infinite flavors by varying the amount and type of mangoes).

In US we don't get the Indian mangoes yet but early this year the US and India have signed agreements/deals. People call it the nuclear agreement but my eyes are fixated on 'allow the mango import from India' part of this deal! Most Indians in US don't visit India during summer (instead preferring the winter/festive season) so we miss the Indian mangoes. It's highly likely that we will see the Indian mangoes in the US next summer. Till that date we have to just wait, watch and count the days (one full year to go!). To all the guys back in India enjoy the mangoes!

 

Comments:
Call me a fanatic but even after tasting all the varieties of mangoes, I still find “Maldah” to be the best. Yummy! Slurp! - Kumod Jha - May 25, 2006

Yeah, but (the usual, customary yeah/but argument) nothing like our 'Dudhia Malda' from Digha... :-)

Great article. Thanks for sharing. - Aninda Bose - May 25, 2006


Indeed, Digha Malda is the best... The aroma is just heavenly...
Wonderful article! Thanks - Rakesh Kumar - May 25, 2006


Again a very good article and certainly welcome relief from all the quota hubbub and brouhaha. When I was a kid around 9-10 years, I used to travel miles in and around my village in Nalanda with bunch of friends on foot in scorching summer heat to quench the palatal yearning of mangoes, for the "khatte aam" in the early summers and later for the luscious and divine "pake hue aam". Broiling and tropical "loo" didn't matter, school and parents appeared a minor irritant, gardeners and mango tree owners were just another obstacle barricading me from that taste of divinity. After marshaling all my intelligence, boundless enthusiasm, fearless spirit and never-say-die attitude for these mangoes, I would find myself happily climbing these huge mango trees and jumping from one razor-thin branches to another. Up there on the top of the mango tree, I felt like I am in the middle of heaven and all the pleasure is mine. I would invariably eat so many that my teeth would give away. How could you control yourself when you are ensconced with all these mangoes all around yourself. No one can eat just one. Many evenings I used to get good thrashings from my mom for all this vagabond adventure of mine in such sweltering summer. However, being a humble mortal that I am, who was I to resist this unstoppable force of yearning and few days later, I would be back scouring miles for that perfect taste of "khatte" aur "meethe aam". The funny part is I didn't even know today what kind of "aam" it was.

My adventure was cut short when I had to move out to the city and then to my amazement, I found out that there are so many types of "aam". Malda, Langra, Dusehari, Neelum, Safeda, Fazali, Vanraj, yada yada yada and more yada yada. If Malda flavor was sweetest, then Langra flavor long lasting and so on. It appeared all very confusing and to my horror, if I had one of these famous cousins of my "gaon wala aam", my cravings would just dwindle. I could eat just one. Apparently I had grown up and grudgingly, I compromised for "Dudhiya Malda" as my first choice.

It was like this till I was hooked on to Alfonso. When I was in IIT Bombay, I went to visit my girlfriend's place in Ratnagiri one summer, whose family had few Alfonso trees in their backyard. Suddenly I find myself looking at these ripe mangoes hanging up there on the top, inviting me, and lo and behold, I am up there on the top in a second tasting these luscious, ripe Alfonsoes. The taste was back and once again, I couldn't just eat one.

Thank God for Mangifera indica L. - Ravindra Kumar, Boston, USA - May 26, 2006


The best aam is Langra. The deep soulful 'mango' taste of Langra scores above the so called sweet tasting mangoes that taste more like sugar compared to a soulful tasting Langra aam. - Rajendra Kumar - May 26, 2006


It's emotional connection with anything including mangoes, which make it pleasant (taste). When i pick a mango its remind me of my childhood. Mangoes were one of the foremost reason that I learnt climbing trees. There are many varieties of mangoes available in the UK. Among them I feel Alphonso is not that great as it is projected. Basically it below expectation. However, I must admit that Pakistani honey mangoes are very tasty and comparable to our mangoes. - Manoj Kumar, London, UK - May 27, 2006


Wonderful article Som Ji, thanks for bringing the subject on board. But we Biharis are not going to budge an inch from declaring Maldah the pick of the lot. However, as a compromise formula we are ready to concede Dussehri and Hapus second and third place respectively.

Having said that, we should not forget about other varieties like – Shukul, Biju, Mithua, Sinduria, Fazli, Sipia, Zarda etc.

I don't know what is the system of selling Bagaicha now? Earlier whole Bagaicha was treated as sola aana. Then those interested were asked to bid. I remember my father always buying ek aana of the share. That ek aana will yield 10-12 mans (1 man = 40 kg) of mangoes during the season, enough for us.

Hope things are still the same. Still, students coming from school will toss a DHELA towards mango tree for Tikola. Still after ANDHAD gaon ki gorian will go to collect Tikola and next day KHATAI will be made.

How does it feel sitting in an Air-conditioned office room in Saudi Arabia and talking about Chamuchak ka Aam Ka Bagaicha?

Any answer??? - Anjum Parwej - May 27, 2006


It's great and tasty debate. To Biharis settled in USA it brings nostalgia of the school summer holidays spent in village mango orchards. We are looking forward to days of getting fresh Langra mangoes and also Lychees of Muzaffarpur. I hope Bihar govt will wake up to cash this opportunity by providing infrastructure and incentive to farmers.

Debate of which state is better in mangoes is typical of India where a large population suffers from state sub-nationalism and considers everything from only his state to be great.

Apart from exporting fresh mangoes, Bihar govt should help quickly set up fruit processing units through which mango pulps and slices can be exported for use beyond season. Lychees can be exported in preservatives without skins & seeds beyond season. China is already doing this. Pulps & slices of Alphansoes are already in US market. This step will improve the economy of Bihar as export potential exists in other countries also. Among other Bihari specialty, 'SATTU' also is not available in US. Bihar can export this. It is popular not only among Biharis but also among Bhojpuri speaking people of UP and some Bengalis. It will become popular among other Indians also once they know the health benefits and great taste of Sattu Bhara parathas. - Mithilesh Kumar, Delmar, NY, USA - May 28, 2006

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